Mes Morado - Purple Month in the Old Capital of the Inca Emprire, Cusco

Posted by : skaweenon03 | 15.11.11 | Published in

The marching band, whose dress varies from brightly colored former costumes, through plain black to the sand camouflage of the police units, lope gravely over the cobbles, ahead of and often also behind an ornately dressed statue, carried at shoulder height by four or more sturdy cusqueños, natives of the city of Cusco.

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When Prince's dazzling and dynamic Purple Rain (movie and soundtrack album) and the hypnotic hit single "When Doves Cry" exploded onto the pop-culture scene in 1984, it seemed there was nothing the purple one couldn't do. The film is basically a feature-length music video, but no musician has ever had a better big-screen showcase for his many talents. The plot is really just a theme (about the son of an abusive father struggling not to continue the pattern) upon which to hang some of Prince's most dazzling songs (including "Let's Go Crazy" and the title tune), and some sizzling live-concert numbers. Apollonia Kotero is ravishing as the romantic interest, and Morris Day and the Time provide some terrific musical competition. Purple Rain is an essential artifact of the mid-'80s pop Zeitgeist. Prince took home an Oscar for the song score. --Jim Emerson


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The statue could be one of the many incarnations of the Virgin Mary, but this month it is most likely to relate el Señor de los Milagros, the Lord of Miracles, a saint whose origins lie in Lima, Peru's capital city, but who has been enthusiastically adopted and revered by the inhabitants of Cusco. El mes morado, or the Purple Month, is so called due to the purple robes used to clothe the statue of the Lord of Miracles when he is paraded through the streets. The color was originally used by an order of nuns in Lima and was later adopted for the Lord of Miracles as a sign of the devotion felt by his many followers.

The Color Purple Soundtrack

The origin of the Lord of Miracles is a miniature out of the ordinary, coming as it does not from an apparition of Christ or miracles performed by an lowly person. Several hundred years ago, a group of slaves painted an image of a black Christ on the cross on a wall in Lima. A huge earthquake later destroyed much of the city, but the wall and the image survived intact, and later earthquakes also failed to have any follow on the wall or the picture. The image came to be considered miraculous and, having its origins exterior the Church, which did endeavor (and failed) to have the wall destroyed, it united believers from many separate faiths. Regardless of race, faith or creed, many careful believe the image to have miraculous powers and struggle in hordes to get close enough to touch it or the corresponding image when paraded through the streets.

Mes Morado - Purple Month in the Old Capital of the Inca Emprire, Cusco

Although you can see two or three of these small and not so small parades throughout any given day from any given point in the city, the best sense is to be had in the Main quadrate where you can see any number of luxuriously clothed saints paraded colse to throughout the day, each often accompanied by their own cohort of musicians and brilliantly dressed dancers.

Parading the saints is not the only way in which the mes morado celebrates the Lord of Miracles. Taking a quiet evening rove down the Avenida El Sol, one of the main avenues of Cusco, you could be rather taken aback to hear distinctly religious music from an otherwise deserted street. As you walk on you come to a red carpeting foremost to a podium decorated with flowers and purple drapes surrounding an image of the Lord of Miracles, while four foot high speakers engulf you in hymns. And this is not at the entry to a church, but to a bank, and sixty feet further up the road is a similar display exterior other bank. On reaching the top of the road, you find a team of giggling teenagers, considered pouring, scraping and sculpting varied hues of colored sand into uncomplicated but eye-catching displays on the theme of the religious point of the Lord of Miracles. The display is gone by morning as the ever-busy road sweepers do their duty regardless of religious fervor, but for days you can see the tasteless colored sand in the cracks between the cobbles.

The Lord of Miracles has proven over the years to have point to many, regardless of their denomination or even their religion. Putting aside their private beliefs, many put their faith in this black saint and his miraculous abilities which is particularly inspiring when Latin America is still so often divided by issues of race.

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